Connection of burnt out fluorescent lamps. Connection diagram for fluorescent lamps: connecting fluorescent lamps with a choke

Widely used fluorescent lamps are not without drawbacks: during their operation, the buzzing of the choke can be heard, the power system has a starter that is unreliable in operation, and most importantly, the lamp has a filament that can burn out, which is why the lamp has to be replaced with a new one.

The fluorescent lamp becomes “eternal”

Shown here is a diagram that eliminates these shortcomings. There is no usual buzzing, the lamp lights up instantly, there is no unreliable starter, and, most importantly, you can use a lamp with a burnt-out filament.

Capacitors C1, C4 must be paper, with an operating voltage of 1.5 times the supply voltage. It is advisable for capacitors C2, C3 to be mica.

Resistor R1 is necessarily a wire-wound one; its resistance depends on the power of the lamp.

Data for circuit elements depending on the power of fluorescent lamps are given in the table:

Diodes D2, D3 and capacitors C1, C4 represent a full-wave rectifier with doubling the voltage. The values of capacitances C1, C4 determine the operating voltage of lamp L1 (the larger the capacitance, the greater the voltage on the electrodes of lamp L1). At the moment of switching on, the voltage at points a and b reaches 600 V, which is applied to the electrodes of lamp L1. At the moment of ignition of lamp L1, the voltage at points a and b decreases and provides normal work lamp L1, designed for voltage 220 V.

The use of diodes D1, D4 and capacitors C2, C3 increases the voltage to 900 V, which ensures reliable ignition of lamp L1 at the moment of switching on. Capacitors C2, C3 simultaneously help suppress radio interference.

Lamp L1 can work without D1, D4, C2, C3, but in this case the reliability of inclusion decreases.

The switching circuit for fluorescent lamps is much more complex than that of incandescent lamps.
Their ignition requires the presence of special starting devices, and the life of the lamp depends on the quality of these devices.

To understand how launch systems work, you must first become familiar with the design of the lighting device itself.

A fluorescent lamp is a gas-discharge light source, the luminous flux of which is formed mainly due to the glow of a phosphor layer applied to the inner surface of the bulb.

When the lamp is turned on, an electronic discharge occurs in the mercury vapor that fills the test tube and the resulting UV radiation affects the phosphor coating. With all this, the frequencies of invisible UV radiation (185 and 253.7 nm) are converted into visible light radiation.
These lamps have low energy consumption and are very popular, especially in industrial premises.

Scheme

When connecting fluorescent lamps, a special starting and regulating technique is used - ballasts. There are 2 types of ballasts: electronic - electronic ballast (electronic ballast) and electromagnetic - electromagnetic ballast (starter and choke).

Connection diagram using electromagnetic ballast or electronic ballast (throttle and starter)

A more common connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp is using an electromagnetic amplifier. This starter circuit.

Operating principle: when the power supply is connected, a discharge appears in the starter and
the bimetallic electrodes are short-circuited, after which the current in the circuit of the electrodes and the starter is limited only by the internal resistance of the inductor, as a result of which the operating current in the lamp increases almost three times and the electrodes of the fluorescent lamp instantly heat up.
At the same time, the bimetallic contacts of the starter cool down and the circuit opens.
At the same time, the choke breaks, thanks to self-induction, creates a triggering high-voltage pulse (up to 1 kV), which leads to a discharge in the gas environment and the lamp lights up. After which the voltage on it will become equal to half of the mains voltage, which will not be enough to re-close the starter electrodes.
When the lamp is on, the starter will not participate in the operating circuit and its contacts will and will remain open.

Main disadvantages

Compared to a circuit with electronic ballast, electricity consumption is 10-15% higher.

Long start-up of at least 1 to 3 seconds (depending on lamp wear)

Inoperability at low ambient temperatures. For example, in winter in an unheated garage.

The stroboscopic result of a flashing lamp, which has a bad effect on vision, and the parts of machine tools rotating synchronously with the mains frequency appear motionless.

The sound of the throttle plates humming, growing over time.

Switching diagram with two lamps but one choke. It should be noted that the inductance of the inductor must be sufficient for the power of these two lamps.
It should be noted that in a sequential circuit for connecting two lamps, 127 Volt starters are used; they will not work in a single-lamp circuit, which will require 220 Volt starters

This circuit, where, as you can see, there is no starter or throttle, can be used if the filaments of the lamps have burned out. In this case, the LDS can be ignited using step-up transformer T1 and capacitor C1, which will limit the current flowing through the lamp from a 220-volt network.

This circuit is suitable for the same lamps whose filaments have burned out, but here there is no need for a step-up transformer, which clearly simplifies the design of the device

But such a circuit using a diode rectifier bridge eliminates the flickering of the lamp at the mains frequency, which becomes very noticeable as it ages.

or more difficult

If the starter in your lamp has failed or the lamp is constantly blinking (along with the starter if you look closely under the starter housing) and there is nothing at hand to replace it, you can light the lamp without it - enough for 1-2 seconds. short-circuit the starter contacts or install button S2 (caution of dangerous voltage)

the same case, but for a lamp with a burnt-out filament

Connection diagram using electronic ballast or electronic ballast

An electronic ballast (EPG), unlike an electromagnetic one, supplies the lamps with a high-frequency voltage from 25 to 133 kHz rather than the mains frequency. And this completely eliminates the possibility of lamp flickering noticeable to the eye. The electronic ballast uses a self-oscillator circuit, which includes a transformer and an output stage using transistors.

Ultraviolet lamp DRL">

Nowadays, chemistry based on photocatalysts is becoming widespread. A variety of adhesives, varnishes, photosensitive emulsions and other interesting achievements of the chemical industry. Unfortunately, industrial UV installations cost a lot of money.

What should you do if you just want to try chemistry? will it fit or not? For this purpose, buying branded devices for N kilobucks is too expensive...

In the territory of the former USSR, the situation is usually solved by extracting quartz tubes from DRL-type lamas; there is a whole line of lamas from DRL-125 to DRL-1000, with the help of them you can obtain fairly powerful radiation, this radiation is usually enough for most occasional tasks. Like hardening the glue or varnish once a month, or exposing the photorhizist.

A lot of information has been written on how to extract a tube from DRL lamps, how to do it safely. I would like to touch on another aspect, namely the launch of these lamps with minimal financial costs.

Standardly, a special choke with increased magnetic dispersion is used for starting. But even this is not always available, and because... It’s heavy, so usually delivery to the regions costs a pretty penny. 700W throttle + delivery costs $100. What to try as an option, too, it’s never cheap.

A little theory:

The main problem with starting mercury lamps is the presence of an arc discharge. Moreover, a cold lamp and a hot lamp have fundamentally different resistance to the burning arc. Approximately from units of ohms to tens of ohms. Accordingly, this is what the inductor serves for, which limits the current during startup and operation of the lamp. It must be admitted that the choke is a rather archaic tool, and for expensive and powerful lamps used in UF dryers (several kilowatts of power, and several thousand dollars per lamp), electronic arc stabilization units are used. These blocks allow you to more accurately maintain arc burning parameters, thereby extending the life of the lamp and reducing problems during curing. Even for an archaic DRL, the manufacturer writes that the voltage spread is no more than 3%, otherwise the service life will be reduced.

How to start a DRL lamp without a choke using improvised means?

The answer is simple, you just need to limit the current in all operating modes, starting with warming up and ending with operating mode. We will limit it with a resistor.

But since the resistor must be very powerful, we will use the heating devices available at hand (incandescent lamps, irons, kettles, water heaters, hand boilers, etc.) It sounds funny, but it will work and fulfill its purpose.

The only drawback is the excessive consumption of electricity, i.e. if we run a 400W DRL lamp on the ballast, about 250W will be released into heat. But I think for the task of trying ultraviolet light, or for occasional work it is not important.

Why didn't anyone do this?

Why no one, there are DRB lamps that use exactly this principle. Next to the quartz tube is the filament of a regular light bulb.

And the writers on the Internet apparently didn’t study physics at school. Well, of course, one more small nuance, you need a heating circuit, i.e. We heat the lamp with one resistor and switch it to operating mode with the other. But I think many people can cope with a switch and two wires :)

So the diagram:

So, for many, I tried to depict the correct schemes, this is a dark forest, in pictures. More close to life.

How it works?

1) Warm-up phase, the switch must be open!!! We turn on the lamp into the network. The incandescent lamp begins to glow brightly, the tube in the DRL lamp begins to flicker and slowly flare up. After 3..5 minutes, the tube in the lamp will begin to shine quite brightly.

2) Secondly, we close the switch to the main ballast, the current will increase further and after another 3 minutes the lamp will return to operating mode.

Attention in total to the load of lamps + irons, kettles, etc. will release powers comparable to the power of the lamp. For example, the iron may be turned off by the built-in thermal relay, and the power of the DRL lamp will decrease.

For most, such a circuit will be very complicated, especially for those who do not have a device for measuring resistance. For them I simplified the diagram even more:

Starting up is simple, unscrew the lamps, leave only the required amount (1-2 pieces) to start the burner, and as it warms up we begin to screw it in. For high-power DRL lamps, tubular halogen lamps can be used as a resistor.

Now the hard part:

Probably, many have already realized that lamps and loads need to be selected somehow? Of course, if you take some kind of iron and connect it to a DRL-125 lamp, there will be nothing left of the lamp, and you will get mercury contamination. By the way, the same thing will happen if you take the choke from the DRL-700 for the DRL-125 lamp. Those. The brain still needs to be turned on!!!

A few simple rules to save your nerves and health :)

1) You can’t rely on device nameplates; you need to measure the actual resistance with an ohmmeter and make calculations. Or use it with a safety margin, choosing a little less power than possible.

2) It is useless to measure the resistance of incandescent lamps; a cold spiral has 10 times less resistance than a hot one. Incandescent lamps are the worst choice; you have to navigate by the inscription on the lamp. And under no circumstances do you turn on the load of incandescent lamps at once; screw them in one at a time, reducing the surge current. Since I suspect that this will be the most popular way to turn on a DRL lamp without a choke. I made a video as an example.

3) For general reasons, to start heating the DRL lamp, use a load not much greater than its rated power. For the example of DRL-400, use 300-400 watts for warming up.

Table for different lamps:

Lamp type	V-arch	I-arcs	R-arcs	Ballast resistor	Inscription on the ballast\iron\lamp\heating element	Heat on the ballast during operation
DRL-125	125 V	1 A	125 Ohm	80 ohm	500 W	116 W
DRL-250	130 V	2 A	68 Ohm	48 Ohm	1000 W	170 W
DRL-400	135 V	3 A	45 Ohm	30 ohm	1600 W	250 W
DRL-700	140 V	5 A	28 Ohm	17 ohm	2850 W	380 W

Comments on the table:

1 - name of the lamp.
2 – operating voltage on a heated lamp.
3 – rated operating current of the lamp.
4 – approximate operating resistance of the lamp in a heated state.
5 – ballast resistor resistance for full power operation.
6 – approximate power written on the nameplate of the device (heating elements, lamps, etc.) that will be used as a ballast resistor.
7 – power in watts that will be released by the ballast resistor or a device replacing it.

If it's difficult or you think it won't work. I made a video, using a DRL-400 lamp as an example, I run it with three 300W lamps (they cost me 30 rubles each). The power on the DRL lamp turned out to be about 300W loss on incandescent lamps 180W. As you can see, there is nothing complicated.

Now the fly in the ointment:

Unfortunately, using DRL lamp burners in commercial applications is not as easy as it seems. The quartz tube in DRL lamps is made based on calculations of operation in an inert gas environment. In this regard, some technological simplifications in production have been introduced. Which immediately affects the service life as soon as you break the outer lamp cylinder. Although, of course, taking into account the cheapness (Watt/ruble), it is not yet known that specialized lamps, or constantly changing emitters from DRL, are more profitable. I will list the main mistakes when designing any devices from DRL lamps:

1) Cooling the lamp. The lamp must be hot, cooling is only indirect. Those. It is the lamp reflector that needs to be cooled, not the lamp itself. The ideal option is to put the emitter into a quartz tube, and cool the outer quartz tube, and not the emitter itself.

2) Using a lamp without reflectors, i.e. They broke the flask and screwed the lamp into the socket. The fact is that with this approach the lamp does not warm up to operating temperatures, there is severe degradation and a reduction in service life by a thousand times. The lamp must be placed in at least a U-shaped aluminum reflector to raise the temperature around the lamp. And at the same time focus the radiation.

3) Fighting ozone. They install powerful exhaust fans, and if the flow goes through the lamp, then we get cooling. It is necessary to develop indirect ozone removal so that the air/ozone intake goes as far as possible from the lamp.

4) Clumsiness when cutting the base. When obtaining the emitter, you must act as carefully as possible, otherwise microcracks in the places where the conductors are connected to the lamp will depressurize it within ten hours of burning.

A very common question about emission spectrum of a quartz flask from DRL lamps. Because some chemical manufacturers write the sensitivity spectrum of their photoinitiators.

So the UV emitter of the DRL lamp is located at the midpoint between high and very high pressure; it has several resonances in the range from 312 to 579 nm. The main resonance spectra look something like this.

I would also like to note that most available window glass will cut the spectrum of the lamp from the bottom to 400 nm with an attenuation coefficient of 50-70%. Take this into account when designing exposure, curing, etc. installations. Or look for chemically pure glass with standardized transmittance values.

I would like to remind you to use protective equipment when working with UF radiation, here are a couple of videos for you to watch.

First video. We pay attention to the alien carrying prints to drying with the cover removed, this is how you have to protect yourself from UF radiation.

The second roller is a hand-held varnish dryer. Unfortunately, it is not said that an exhaust hood is needed, ozone is not very useful...

Well, it’s not scary yet, then let’s move on. But what about the poor printers/silk screen printers who decided to try modern UF inks? The prices from branded dryers are breathtaking, and if you convert them into rubles, they are simply outrageous.

I think many people tried to dry DRL with tubes, and nothing worked, well, except for some types of varnish.

In general, to be continued.

Read my reviews about printers and other equipment on my website and stay tuned for updates.

Fluorescent lamps have long been firmly established in our lives, and are now gaining the greatest popularity, since electricity is constantly becoming more expensive and the use of conventional incandescent lamps is becoming quite an expensive pleasure. But not everyone can afford energy-saving compact lamps, and modern chandeliers require a large number of them, which calls into question cost savings. That is why more and more fluorescent lamps are being installed in modern apartments.

The device of fluorescent lamps

To understand how a fluorescent lamp works, you should study its structure a little. The lamp consists of a thin cylindrical glass bulb, which can have different diameters and shapes.

Lamps can be:

straight;
ring;
U-shaped;
compact (with base E14 and E27).

Although they are all different appearance They all have one thing in common: they all have electrodes inside, a luminescent coating and an injected inert gas containing mercury vapor. The electrodes are small spirals that heat up for a short period of time and ignite the gas, due to which the phosphor applied to the walls of the lamp begins to glow. Since ignition coils are small in size, the standard voltage available in the home electrical network is not suitable for them. For this purpose, special devices are used - chokes, which limit the current strength to the nominal value, thanks to inductive reactance. Also, so that the spiral heats up briefly and does not burn out, another element is used - a starter, which, after igniting the gas in the lamp tubes, turns off the filament of the electrodes.

Throttle

Starter

Operating principle of a fluorescent lamp

A 220V voltage is supplied to the terminals of the assembled circuit, which passes through the inductor to the first spiral of the lamp, then goes to the starter, which fires and passes current to the second spiral connected to the network terminal. This is clearly seen in the diagram below:

Often a capacitor is installed at the input terminals, playing the role of a surge filter. It is through its operation that part of the reactive power generated by the inductor is extinguished, and the lamp consumes less electricity.

How to connect a fluorescent lamp?

The connection diagram for fluorescent lamps given above is the simplest and is intended for igniting one lamp. In order to connect two fluorescent lamps, you need to slightly change the circuit, following the same principle of connecting all elements in series, as shown below:

In this case, two starters are used, one for each lamp. When connecting two lamps to one choke, you should take into account its rated power, which is indicated on its body. For example, if it has a power of 40 W, then you can connect two identical lamps with a load of no more than 20 W to it.

There is also a diagram for connecting a fluorescent lamp without using starters. Thanks to the use of electronic ballast devices, lamps are ignited instantly, without the characteristic “blinking” of starter control circuits.

Electronic ballasts

Connecting a lamp to such devices is very simple: detailed information is written on their body and it is schematically shown which contacts of the lamp need to be connected to the corresponding terminals. But to make it completely clear how to connect a fluorescent lamp to an electronic ballast, you need to look at a simple diagram:

The advantage of this connection is the absence of additional elements required for starter lamp control circuits. In addition, by simplifying the circuit, the reliability of the lamp operation increases, since additional connections of wires to starters, which are also rather unreliable devices, are eliminated.

Below is a diagram of connecting two fluorescent lamps to the electronic ballast.

As a rule, the electronic ballast device already comes with all the necessary wires for assembling the circuit, so there is no need to invent something and incur additional costs to purchase the missing elements.

How to check a fluorescent lamp?

If the lamp stops lighting, then the likely cause of its malfunction may be a break in the tungsten filament, which heats the gas, causing the phosphor to glow. During operation, tungsten gradually evaporates, settling on the walls of the lamp. At the same time, a dark coating appears on the edges of the glass bulb, warning that the lamp may soon fail.

How to check the integrity of a tungsten filament? It’s very simple, you need to take a regular tester with which you can measure the resistance of the conductor and touch the lead ends of the lamp with the probes.

The device shows a resistance of 9.9 ohms, which eloquently tells us that the thread is intact.

When checking the second pair of electrodes, the tester shows a complete zero; this side has a broken filament and therefore the lamp does not want to light up.

The break of the spiral occurs because over time the thread becomes thinner and the tension passing through it gradually increases. Due to the increase in voltage, the starter fails - this can be seen from the characteristic “blinking” of the lamps. After replacing burnt out lamps and starters, the circuit should work without adjustment.

If turning on the fluorescent lamps is accompanied by extraneous sounds or a burning smell is heard, you should immediately turn off the power to the lamp and check the functionality of all its elements. There is a possibility that there is slack in the terminal connections and the wire connection is heating up. In addition, the inductor, if made poorly, may have a turn short circuit in the windings and, as a result, failure of the fluorescent lamps.

Fluorescent lamps (FLLs) are widely used to illuminate both large areas of public premises and as household light sources. The popularity of fluorescent lamps is largely due to their economic characteristics. Compared to incandescent lamps of this type lamps have high efficiency, increased light output and longer service life. However, a functional disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is the need for a starting starter or a special ballast (ballast). Accordingly, the task of starting the lamp when the starter fails or is absent is urgent and relevant.

The fundamental difference between an LDS and an incandescent lamp is that the conversion of electricity into light occurs due to the flow of current through mercury vapor mixed with an inert gas in a bulb. Current begins to flow after breakdown of the gas by high voltage applied to the electrodes of the lamp.

Throttle.
Lamp bulb.
Luminescent layer.
Starter contacts.
Starter electrodes.
Starter housing.
Bimetallic plate.
Lamp filaments.
Ultraviolet radiation.
Discharge current.

The resulting ultraviolet radiation lies in the part of the spectrum invisible to the human eye. To convert it into a visible light flux, the walls of the bulb are coated with a special layer, a phosphor. By changing the composition of this layer, you can obtain different light shades.
Before the direct start-up of the LDS, the electrodes at its ends are heated by passing a current through them or due to the energy of a glow discharge.
High breakdown voltage is provided by ballasts, which can be assembled according to a well-known traditional circuit or have a more complex design.

Starter operating principle

In Fig. Figure 1 shows a typical connection of an LDS with a starter S and a choke L. K1, K2 – lamp electrodes; C1 is a cosine capacitor, C2 is a filter capacitor. A mandatory element of such circuits is a choke (inductor) and a starter (chopper). The latter is often used as a neon lamp with bimetallic plates. To improve the low power factor due to the presence of inductor inductance, an input capacitor is used (C1 in Fig. 1).

Rice. 1 Functional diagram LDS connections

The LDS startup phases are as follows:
1) Warming up the lamp electrodes. In this phase, the current flows through the circuit “Network – L – K1 – S – K2 – Network”. In this mode, the starter begins to close/open randomly.
2) At the moment the starter circuit breaks, S energy magnetic field, accumulated in the inductor L, is applied in the form of a high voltage to the electrodes of the lamp. An electrical breakdown of the gas inside the lamp occurs.
3) In breakdown mode, the lamp resistance is lower than the resistance of the starter branch. Therefore, the current flows along the circuit “Network – L – K1 – K2 – Network”. In this phase, inductor L acts as a current-limiting reactor.
Disadvantages of the traditional LDS starting circuit: acoustic noise, flickering with a frequency of 100 Hz, increased start-up time, low efficiency.

Operating principle of electronic ballasts

Electronic ballasts (EPG) use the potential of modern power electronics and are more complex, but also more functional circuits. Such devices allow you to control the three startup phases and adjust the light output. The result is longer lamp life. Also, due to the lamp being powered with a current of a higher frequency (20÷100 kHz), there is no visible flicker. A simplified diagram of one of the popular electronic ballast topologies is shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2 Simplified circuit diagram of electronic ballasts
In Fig. 2 D1-D4 – mains voltage rectifier, C – filter capacitor, T1-T4 – transistor bridge inverter with transformer Tr. Optionally, the electronic ballast may contain an input filter, a power factor correction circuit, additional resonant chokes and capacitors.
A complete schematic diagram of one of the typical modern electronic ballasts is shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3 Diagram of BIGLUZ electronic ballasts
The circuit (Fig. 3) contains the main elements mentioned above: a bridge diode rectifier, a filter capacitor in the DC link (C4), an inverter in the form of two transistors with wiring (Q1, R5, R1) and (Q2, R2, R3), inductor L1, transformer with three terminals TR1, trigger circuit and lamp resonant circuit. Two windings of the transformer are used to turn on transistors, the third winding is part of the resonant circuit of the LDS.

Methods for starting LDS without specialized ballasts

When a fluorescent lamp fails, there are two possible reasons:
1) . In this case, it is enough to replace the starter. The same operation should be carried out if the lamp flickers. In this case, upon visual inspection, there are no characteristic darkening on the LDS flask.
2) . Perhaps one of the electrode threads has burned out. Upon visual inspection, darkening may be noticeable at the ends of the bulb. Here you can use known starting circuits to continue operating the lamp even with burnt-out electrode threads.
For emergency starting, a fluorescent lamp can be connected without a starter according to the diagram below (Fig. 4). Here the user plays the role of starter. Contact S1 is closed for the entire period of lamp operation. Button S2 is closed for 1-2 seconds to light the lamp. When S2 opens, the voltage on it at the moment of ignition will be significantly higher than the mains voltage! Therefore, extreme caution should be exercised when working with such a scheme.

Rice. 4 Schematic diagram of starting an LDS without a starter
If you need to quickly ignite an LVDS with burnt filaments, then you need to assemble a circuit (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5 Schematic diagram of connecting an LDS with a burnt filament
For a 7-11 W inductor and a 20 W lamp, the C1 rating is 1 µF with a voltage of 630 V. Capacitors with a lower rating should not be used.
Automatic circuits for starting an LDS without a choke involve using an ordinary incandescent lamp as a current limiter. Such circuits, as a rule, are multipliers and supply the LDS with direct current, which causes accelerated wear of one of the electrodes. However, we emphasize that such circuits allow you to run even an LDS with burnt-out electrode threads for some time. A typical connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp without a choke is shown in Fig. 6.

Rice. 6. Block diagram of connecting an LDS without a choke

Rice. 7 Voltage on the LDS connected according to the diagram (Fig. 6) before start-up
As we see in Fig. 7, the voltage on the lamp at the moment of starting reaches the level of 700 V in approximately 25 ms. Instead of an HL1 incandescent lamp, you can use a choke. Capacitors in the diagram of Fig. 6 should be selected within 1÷20 µF with a voltage of at least 1000V. Diodes must be designed for a reverse voltage of 1000V and a current of 0.5 to 10 A, depending on the lamp power. For a 40 W lamp, diodes rated for current 1 will be sufficient.
Another version of the launch scheme is shown in Fig. 8.

Rice. 8 Schematic diagram of a multiplier with two diodes
Parameters of capacitors and diodes in the circuit in Fig. 8 are similar to the diagram in Fig. 6.
One of the options for using a low-voltage power supply is shown in Fig. 9. Based on this circuit (Fig. 9), you can assemble a wireless fluorescent lamp on a battery.

Rice. 9 Schematic diagram of connecting LDS from a low-voltage power source
For the above circuit, it is necessary to wind a transformer with three windings on one core (ring). As a rule, the primary winding is wound first, then the main secondary (indicated as III in the diagram). Cooling must be provided for the transistor.

Conclusion

If the fluorescent lamp starter fails, you can use an emergency “manual” start or simple circuits DC power supply. When using circuits based on voltage multipliers, it is possible to start a lamp without a choke using an incandescent lamp. When operating on direct current, there is no flicker or noise from the LDS, but the service life is reduced.
If one or two filaments of the cathodes of a fluorescent lamp burn out, it can continue to be used for some time, using the above-mentioned circuits with increased voltage.