Connecting a subwoofer to a pioneer receiver. Connecting a subwoofer

As you know, a subwoofer is one of the components of an acoustic system. It can be present both in a home theater and a music center. At its core, it is a speaker that can reproduce low frequencies that are at the lower threshold of sensitivity of the human ear.

The subwoofer can be active or passive. Active subwoofers are good because they relieve the load on the main home theater amplifier. However, their cost is slightly higher than that of passive subwoofers, but they are also more reliable. The main disadvantage of the latter is the need to accurately link the existing speaker system with a passive subwoofer. In this article we will analyze the instructions and connection diagrams for both types of subwoofer.

Amplifier and subwoofer connection diagram

To connect the amplifier and subwoofer, you need to follow a few simple steps. First you need to connect the linear output of the amplifier to the linear input of the tulip-type subwoofer. This input can be stereo. The signals will be mixed inside the subwoofer, or sent to two different amplifiers. There are subwoofers that contain a dual-coil speaker and a double-wound coil itself. Each of these windings will have its own separate amplifier connected.

If the amplifier that you plan to connect to the subwoofer has an RCA connector, then for the connection you will have to use a Y-shaped cable, which must be connected with the double end to the line inputs of the subwoofer.

Active subwoofer connection diagram

An active subwoofer, that is, one with a built-in amplifier, must be connected using an RCA-RCA coaxial cable (tulip-to-tulip type). One end of this cable must be connected to the subwoofer, and the other to the six-channel analog panel of the receiver. The connector labeled Subwoofer should be used. If the subwoofer has two or four tulip-type connectors, then you need to use a white connector. It is also possible to use output terminals to connect a subwoofer, which are usually used when connecting acoustic systems. In this case, the speaker systems together with the subwoofer will be able to operate in parallel in the low-frequency range.

Passive subwoofer connection diagram

Now let's move on to connecting a passive subwoofer. It can be connected to the Pre Out Subwoofer output; for this, the subwoofer itself must have two terminals on the back. This subwoofer can be connected using a separate amplifier.

It is important not to forget to set the “cutoff” in the receiver to the subwoofer. This way you can only adjust the overall volume of your entire speaker system. Otherwise, there is a very high risk of damaging the subwoofer if you only use the subwoofer amplifier control.

Passive subwoofers can also be connected in parallel to the front speakers. In the stereo version, the passive subwoofer is ideal for home theater. To use it with a stereo amplifier, you must connect the subwoofer outputs to the amplifier outputs. To achieve this, it is best to use speaker cables with a thickness of 2.5 to 4 mm.

You can adjust the length of such cables yourself - depending on how far from each other all the necessary devices will be located. It is important not to forget during connection to make sure that the poles of the plugs and the poles of the provided channels correspond to each other. The subwoofer outputs must be connected to the satellites.

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Connecting a passive subwoofer to the receiver

Connecting a passive subwoofer to a receiver is not entirely simple. You need to know how to connect a passive subwoofer to a receiver using the basic rules, and be able to understand the circuit.
In this article we will try to explain in simple words how to do this in the fastest way.

Subwoofer and why you need it

It’s probably not worth citing the advantages of a subwoofer, its irreplaceable role in modern systems, but you still have to do it, at least superficially. This will make it possible to better understand the full purpose of this type of speaker, its advantages and features.
So:

  • A high-quality speaker, which every music lover driver wants to see in his car, must be able to “play” a wide range of frequencies perceived by the user. Using only ordinary speakers, this is simply impossible to achieve. And here the subwoofer comes onto the scene - a separate low-frequency speaker with wide capabilities.

Note. The subwoofer can reproduce low frequencies. This is facilitated by the head, which has a certain diffuser size.

  • A subwoofer is needed not only to support high-frequency/midrange speakers, but also for multimedia systems. In the absence of a subwoofer, the music flowing from the car radio loses some attractiveness and becomes, as it were, incomplete.

Where does a subwoofer live better?

The ideal place for a subwoofer is in the trunk. It is here that a three-dimensional acoustic design is provided for it, where frequencies up to 100 Hz are best reproduced.

Note. Most passive subwoofers are limited to 60-85 Hz, making it even more challenging to find a good spot. The trunk not only provides good acoustic design. This is where it is easiest to place a subwoofer, sometimes a large one.

So:

  • There are often options when a subwoofer is built into the front panel. Such a solution is, of course, interesting, but for implementation it will require knowledge of some highly specialized technical issues.
    In addition, such an arrangement is more the lot of real sound fans, who are ready to sacrifice anything so that “the music sounds special.”
  • Of the three types of subwoofers, passive is considered the most interesting option from the point of view of proper music reproduction. In it, the low-frequency head is located in a box, thereby providing acoustic design.

Connection depending on body type

Note. Different cars have different types of trunks. Therefore, in this case, it is customary to familiarize yourself with the types of car body in order to understand the difference. As a rule, today there are 3 main types of car body types: sedan, station wagon and convertible.

Sedan

One of the heavy and uncomfortable installations is implied in the sedan. This is where you will have to tinker a lot, since the interior and trunk are not connected to each other, but are isolated.
In this case, it will be very important to make or buy an acoustic shelf that will completely solve the problem.

Note. The rear parcel shelf of a car is the most common place to install a subwoofer. Some people recommend installing the speaker in the rear seat armrests.
You need to know that in this case you will need to pay close attention to the preparation of the holes, which must be sufficient and large. Why are they so important? The fact is that the small ones cover the diffuser of the subwoofer.

Hatchback or station wagon

This is considered the most convenient body for a passive one. Here you can use the sound design of Free Air, although others of a similar type can be used.

Cabriolet

This type of body is also considered difficult in terms of installing a subwoofer. The thing is, there's quite a bit of space here. On the other hand, if you use a bass reflex design, the sound pressure will be normal.

Note. It is recommended that if the amount of installed space in the cabin is small and has restrictions, use closed-type acoustics. You can install 2 woofers, and put a hard plate in front of them, which will completely solve the problem.

Connection process

So, let's move on to the most important thing - the connection:

  • First of all, you will need to disconnect the wire going to the AK battery (meaning negative). This is done to avoid short circuits, and generally for general safety purposes.
  • Now you need to determine the location where the fuse will be installed. This element can protect the main parts of devices from possible short circuits by absorbing the current shock. The fuse itself must be outside the fault zone.
  • Special attention will have to be paid to cables and wiring.

Note. The greatest attention should be paid to these components, since the quality of the wires ultimately determines the purity of the sound.

  • We prepare places for laying the cable, put on rubber bushings of the required size.
  • Under the hood we find a power source - a wire that will need to be tightened for a convenient connection to the fuse.

Advice. It will be better if the wires run along the edge of the cabin, thereby not interfering with anything and giving free access to them at any time. It will be better if the wires go as low as possible, right along the passenger side of the car. At the same time, they should not come into contact with any elements of the car, especially metal ones.

  • Next we connect the wire from the RCA output to the Sut Out of the subwoofer.

    • Receiver to which you can connect a passive subwoofer

    Note. The amplifier will have a terminal labeled "PWR" or "+12". We connect the wires here, and lead the grounding cable to the “GND” terminal.

    • Check to see if the amplifier is turned on. The subwoofer should work normally and should be clearly audible.

    Note. It is important to ensure that all connectors match during the wiring process so as not to confuse anything.

    • The negative terminal is put in place.
    • Again everything is thoroughly checked.

    When working with your own hands, it is advisable to use a diagram, photo and video materials. The instructions given above will allow you to carry out everything at a high level if you know the pinout perfectly.
    The connection process can also be entrusted to specialists, but in this case the installation price will seem too high to some Russians.

Switching the audio part of the complex

Let's continue the conversation. This article will focus on switching audio signals between the components of a home theater complex. In addition to advice on the actual switching, this article focuses on cables, as well as the problem of saving money by making homemade cables. Is the game worth the candle?

Cables

Types of interconnect cables

Interconnect cables are more complex products than speaker cables. There is also a different design of the cable itself, where a significantly greater number of innovations are used both in terms of the conductor material used and in the field of dielectrics, in contrast to speaker materials. Secondly, it is mandatory to have connectors at both ends of the cable. And, of course, today it is difficult to imagine a modern interconnect cable without the presentable and stylish appearance of not only the connectors, but also the cable itself.

And on the market now you can find “interblocks” for every taste, color and budget. A ready-made cable in a package can now be purchased for either $10 or $500. A lot here depends not only on the quality of the cable, but also on the “brand” of the manufacturer (its reputation and fame). However, today we will talk mainly about quite affordable interconnect cables, and not about super-elite wires in gold-plated boxes with velvet interiors.

All interconnects can be divided into two main categories: cables designed to transmit an analog signal (the so-called “interconnects” or “analog” cables), and cables designed to transmit digital data, called “digital” cables for simplicity.

"Analog" interconnect cables

This type of interconnects is designed for transmitting low-current signals from a source to processing devices, a switch, an amplifier, and so on. For this type of connection, a shielded audio cable is usually used, built according to a coaxial arrangement of conductors, where the central conductor is protected from interference by a screen, usually made of many thin metal wires. This design avoids interference from nearby electrical appliances, and allows a low-current signal to be passed from one component to another with minimal losses. To connect such cables to devices, convenient RCA connectors (popularly called “tulips” or “bells”) are used, which are the most common connectors in household audio equipment. Typically, the definition of “interconnect cable” is as follows: a connector consisting of two cables and 4 RCA connectors (that is, in simpler terms, a “2 tulip to 2 tulip” cable) capable of transmitting a signal of two channels from one system component to another.

"Digital" cables

In turn, this type of cable is divided into two types: cables designed to transmit a digital signal in the form of electric current (“digital coaxials” in common parlance) and for transmitting a digital signal in the form of light (fiber optics or, more simply put, “optical” cables) . Let's start with the first ones.

This cable is practically no different in appearance from an ordinary “analog” interconnect. Externally, the only difference is the absence of a second connector. That is, “digital coaxial” is just one cable with connectors at the ends (usually RCA connectors). Or, to put it simply, the cable will be called “1 tulip - 1 tulip”. The “digital coaxial” is manufactured only according to the coaxial circuit (hence the corresponding name), and, unlike the “analog interconnector”, the “digital coaxial” must have a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms.

It is also highly desirable that the connectors also have a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms, however, this [desirable, but not mandatory] condition is met only in the manufacture of fairly expensive “household” and almost all professional cables.

And finally, fiber optic cables. Everything is simple here: a digital signal is transmitted in the form of light through a flexible optical fiber, which can be made of a special polymer (in relatively inexpensive cables and mid-price cables) or from special flexible glass (these cables are already more expensive).

Optical cables have several advantages over electrical “coaxials”: ​​firstly, “optics” are potentially capable of transmitting a larger volume of digital information. Secondly, optical fiber allows you to make a ground isolation between two components (this is especially true when connecting the computer system unit to the receiver). But a high-quality optical cable is very expensive, and its inexpensive implementation (usually up to $40-50) and data transmission circuits in budget equipment do not allow you to enjoy all the benefits of “optics”. Therefore, if you do not want to pay more than $30-40 for a “digital” cable (usually “digital” cables of this cost are most often purchased for an entry-level and mid-level DVD player and receiver), then it is better to pay attention to the coaxial “digital” » cable.

Frequently asked questions on this topic:

But still, what is better in sound: “optics” or “coaxial”?

If we talk even about middle-class components ($400-800 each), then there will be no fundamental difference in sound. Moreover, the probability that you will not hear any difference between “optics” and “coaxial” is 99%. So connect as you wish, but remember that, all other things being equal, coaxial is almost always cheaper than optics of a similar class.

What is the maximum length of a digital cable?

For optical cable - 7 meters. For “electrical coaxial” there are no such clear restrictions, since everything depends on the quality of the cable itself. When using a good quality coaxial cable, digital data can be transmitted over 10-15 meters or more without problems.

Most satellite receivers only have an optical digital output - is it worth buying an expensive cable?

No, it's not worth it. The fact is that the sound quality in satellite television is not the highest (relatively low bitrate of the digital audio data stream) in relation to a music DVD or, say, CD, so even a very simple optical cable for $10-15 will be more than enough.

If you plan to connect a VCR, game console, karaoke, tuner or similar devices, then, regardless of the price category of these devices, you can limit yourself to very inexpensive “interconnects” for $10-20, or make them yourself (more on this below). It makes sense to buy a high-quality interconnect cable only to connect a good stationary CD player or DVD-A/SACD player to an amplifier or a fairly high-quality receiver. Let's say, for a mid-class CD player ($300-500), it makes sense to buy an interconnect cable for $40-70. Further in ascending order - depending on the class of components. If you don’t believe in the ability of cables to influence sound, then you can buy an inexpensive “interconnect” for a good CD player (or a high-quality DVD-A/SACD player) or make a cable yourself.

Is it possible to save money by making the interconnect cable yourself?

If you know how to solder, then you can save quite a lot on the purchase of interconnect cables. As already mentioned, most system components (karaoke, VCR, separate tuner) do not require particularly high-quality cables, so you can and should use homemade cables to connect these components. Is it profitable? Undoubtedly. Moreover, not only from a financial point of view, but even from a quality point of view (!) The fact is that for the manufacture of homemade interconnect cables, good (but very inexpensive) professional microphone or instrument cables (Proel, Canare, Tasker, and so on) are used - There are many manufacturers of professional cables), which are sold in any professional audio equipment store. And the quality of these cables is usually a cut above that of very inexpensive “branded” interconnects. A meter of such professional cable costs about $1. High-quality RCA connectors will cost $1-2 apiece (let me remind you, you need 4 of them). So it turns out that a good homemade cable with connectors will cost $5-10. This is despite the fact that the quality of such an “interconnect” will be at the level of approximately a $30 purchased interconnect cable, or even higher. Don’t forget, in the case of a ready-made cable, you pay for the box, advertising, the work of a solder and a sales consultant.

Is it possible to make a good interconnect cable for a CD player?

Many people do this, but they buy better microphone or instrument cables for $1.5-2 per meter and good connectors for $2-3 apiece. If you use high-quality solder and do everything correctly, then such a “homemade” interconnect cable can easily compete in terms of sound with a “Hi-Fi class” interconnect cable for $50-70 or more.

Anyone who does not believe in the ability of cables to “sound” will definitely solder a similar interconnect cable himself. Well, if you doubt whether a purchased cable can “outperform” a homemade one, then do this: solder (or ask a person who knows how to do it) one “interconnect” from a good microphone cable and RCA connectors. then go to any large salon or Hi-Fi store and take as collateral several affordable ready-made “interconnects” from well-known manufacturers. At home, compare the sound by connecting either ready-made cables or a homemade one to the CD player. Although, it’s better if someone else connects - it will be an honest “blind” audition. There you will decide two questions for yourself at once: is there any difference at all in the sound of the cables, and you will also understand how much worse/better a homemade cable is, considering that it is several times cheaper than a purchased one. If purchased cables “win,” then at least you can use an already made cable to connect the same VCR. And if the homemade one “wins,” rejoice. Thus, you can save hundreds of dollars on cables, If The sound of homemade cables suits you.

I believe that the cable changes the sound of the system, but I don't know which one to choose.

Nothing could be simpler. Go to any large salon or Hi-Fi store, take a few affordable interconnects as collateral and compare their sound on your system. Exactly on your system and in your room. This way you will have a more accurate idea of ​​the “sound” character of each cable.

Is it possible to make a “digital” cable yourself?

Yes, only if we are talking about a “digital” coaxial cable, since making an optical cable at home will take too much effort, and even money; it’s easier to buy a ready-made one. But you can easily make a “digital coaxial” yourself, especially if your system consists of entry-level or mid-level components. It is also worth making a “digital” cable if you are not eager to pay a lot of money for a purchased one, knowing that in practice you will definitely not benefit from a purchased one in your case. So, what are the requirements for “digital coaxial”? Firstly, the coaxial design, and secondly, the characteristic impedance is 75 Ohms. These requirements are met by... an antenna cable. Yes, yes, it’s a high-quality antenna cable ($0.8-1.5 per meter). If possible, you can buy a high-quality antenna or video cable (for example, the same Canare) at a price of $0.8-3 per meter in a professional equipment store, since such a cable will be guaranteed to be better in quality than the antenna sold on the radio market, although very good, according to the seller.

It is important to remember: if you do not have very expensive components, if you are planning to make a cable of short length (1-2 meters), then you may not even remember the influence of a digital cable on the sound of the system, since even a homemade “digital coaxial” (pictured below) , assembled from a piece of a good antenna or video cable with two good RCA connectors (such a cable with connectors will cost $4-6), will be no worse than any purchased digital coaxial cable for tens of dollars. Unless you have a beautiful box and fashionable nameplates on the connectors and cable. However, a homemade one can also look good.

Switching

On the schematic images of the devices there are no inputs/outputs of video signals, so that they do not distract, because today we are talking only about switching audio signals.

Connecting a DVD Player to an AV Receiver

Everything is quite simple here. The entire audio stream is transmitted in digital form via one single “digital” cable: optical or coaxial electrical (only the method of signal delivery changes, but the essence remains the same: deliver the digital stream from the source to the decoder). Therefore, the digital output of the DVD player must be connected to the corresponding digital input of the receiver with one single “digital” cable. I have already told you what exactly it is above. In this case, the DVD player will output a “raw” digital stream, and the “brains” of the receiver will turn this stream into multi-channel sound or stereo sound (depending on the format of the source digital stream and the receiver settings). If your DVD player is equipped with a built-in multichannel audio decoder, but is a device of the same class (aka price) with the AV receiver, then there is no point in using the decoder built into the DVD player, since the decoder and DACs (digital-to-analog converters) of the receiver will not worse, but will provide greater opportunities to customize the sound for a specific listening room.

What else does the CD player do in the diagram? It is one of the possible options for expanding the complex in order to improve music playback. It's no secret that even middle-class DVD players (not to mention budget models) do not have the most outstanding abilities in terms of music playback, often inferior in this even to relatively inexpensive stationary CD players. Likewise, many middle-class AV receivers ($500-600) cannot boast of good DACs. Therefore, many people find a way out: having bought a quite decent AV receiver with a multi-channel analog input, they buy a very inexpensive DVD player only for cinema (in all honesty, we can say that a DVD player for $150-200 does not show much worse than a device for $400-600, especially if you watch the picture on a 21"-29") TV, since the receiver will still be involved in decoding multi-channel audio, which means that the DVD player only requires a digital audio output and more or less decent image quality. And the money saved goes towards purchasing a high-quality (at least $400-450) CD player. In this case, the owner of the system receives both high-quality sound when playing music and a very good cinema experience.

So, the purchased CD player is connected not to the “CD” input on the receiver, as one might think, but to a multi-channel analog input. Why? Please take a look at the diagram:

If you look at the diagram, you can see two possible analog signal paths inside the receiver (from the analog inputs to the amplifier). The top half of the graph shows the signal path coming from any analog input, such as TAPE, AUX, CD, etc. In this case, the analog signal is digitized (ADC - analog-to-digital conversion), then a DSP processor works with the already digitized signal, which, “at the client’s request,” can decompose the original stereo signal into a multi-channel one (say, using the Dolby Pro Logic II algorithm), filter out low frequencies to send them to the subwoofer, process the sound with an equalizer or one of the spatial mode presets. After all these manipulations, the signal is again converted to analog (DAC - digital-to-analog conversion) and only then goes to the amplifier. But the problem is that the “weak link” in this chain is not so much the DAC as the ADC, which, of course, determines the “ceiling” of sound quality. And the ADC in receivers is usually quite mediocre, although it is quite enough for digitizing an audio signal from a VCR, tuner or karaoke. But if you connect a good CD player, you will immediately hear that the sound of your good CD player has become “cheaper” and “poorer”. To use the potential of your CD player, it must be connected to the front channels of the multi-channel input. After all, only the signal from a multi-channel input is not subjected to the procedure ADC > DSP > DAC (the lower half of the circuit), which is destructive for the quality of the signal. That is, the signal from the multi-channel analog input goes straight to the pre-amplifier, and then to the power amplifier. And the vast majority of modern AV receivers work on this principle. It is very simple to check the “honesty” of the multi-channel input of the receiver: for the signal entering the multi-channel input, no sound adjustments should be available (equalizer, tone block*, spatial sound modes) - only the volume control should work. In this case everything is fine.

* unless, of course, the receiver’s tone block is analog, made in the form of mechanical knobs on the front panel

A class higher

If you have a fairly serious receiver and a high-quality DVD player with the ability to play DVD-Audio and/or SACD discs, then you most likely will no longer need a separate CD player. Then we will switch the components as follows: for cinema there remains a digital connection (“coaxial” or “optics” is not so important), but for DVD-A/SACD discs you need to use an analog one, connecting the 6-channel output of the DVD player decoder with a multi-channel input receiver with 3 pairs of decent interconnect cables, since in this case the player’s DACs will probably be of higher quality than those installed in the receiver, and, besides, the receiver will probably simply “not understand” the digital stream or DVD-A (only the newest ones can and expensive models), nor, especially, SACD (Super Audio CD). So, feel free to use two types of connection.

We connect the remaining components (karaoke, VCR, cassette deck, etc.) to the free analog inputs of the receiver. The sound quality of these devices is practically unaffected by the internal processes occurring in the receiver.

Subwoofer, One of the most important components of a multi-channel speaker system, its presence is mandatory in the set of a speaker system for a home theater. Let's figure out what a subwoofer is and define its functions and purposes. Main classifications: a) active subwoofer b) passive subwoofer

Subwoofer is a speaker designed to reproduce low frequencies that are at the lower sensitivity threshold of the human ear. The term "Subwoofer" is used to describe a system with a low-frequency driver housed in a separate housing. I would not say that the subwoofer is one of the most important components of the speaker system, outlining the lower, velvety part of the sound spectrum, since I have repeatedly achieved high-quality lows from old 2- or 3-way Pioneers, but this is individual for each user.





Terminology:

  • Maximum sound pressure. Maximum subwoofer volume.
  • Frequency range (Hz). The frequency range of the subwoofer can be divided into the area of ​​deep bass 20-40 Hz, medium bass 40-80 Hz, high bass 80-160 Hz. Top models from leading manufacturers can reach listeners with frequencies of 20-80 Hz. Higher frequencies usually rely on the stereo pair.
  • Crossover (cutoff) frequency. The frequency at which the spectrum is divided by the crossover. If the subwoofer has a crossover frequency of 80 Hz, then all components with frequencies above 80 Hz will be attenuated and transmitted to the speaker system, but the quality of the acoustics plays a role here.
  • Sensitivity (dB). The more sensitive the dynamics, the less the amplifier is loaded, the greater the sound pressure it produces at the same power.

The subwoofer formula is that the larger the area, and therefore the size of the diffuser, the more powerful and organic the bass.

The dimensions of the subwoofer are quite large. Basically, the subwoofer body is cubic in shape and made of standard materials for acoustics, for example MDF board made from wood fiber chips, made at high pressure and temperature. You can also find cylindrical and spherical systems, but they are not widely used. The low-frequency diffuser is located inside the subwoofer housing, and it is worth noting that the stroke of the speaker emitter can reach up to 7 centimeters! Subwoofers are divided into active and passive. The active ones already have an amplifier with them, and the passive one needs to be connected to a separate sound amplifier, the function of which is to amplify and transmit the signal to your Hi-Fi equipment (acoustic speakers, home theater speakers).

The main thing is your perception of the music and your feelings. Rely on them, and the chosen acoustics will delight you every time you listen. With the right choice, even inexpensive components can achieve maximum quality; all that is needed is a balance between them.

Correct connection of the subwoofer

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Any amplifier/receiver is usually equipped with a special RCA output, which is designed for connecting subwoofers. Some of them have two outputs (for example, described in the Pioneer VSX-420 receiver). However, they usually use one output, since the second one is most often designed so that a second subwoofer can be connected. To connect a subwoofer, you need an RCA cable to connect it to one RCA input available on the receiver (audio cables are described).

How to properly connect a subwoofer: general information

  1. A special linear output of the amplifier or receiver is connected to the linear input of the built-in RCA subwoofer amplifier (tulip). This input may be "stereo". Inside the subwoofer, the signals from these inputs are usually mixed or sent to 2 different amplifiers. Some subwoofers have a double-coil speaker with the coil itself having two windings. A separate amplifier is connected to each winding. If your receiver has one RCA connector for connecting a subwoofer, then the receiver (amplifier) ​​is connected with the double end of a Y-shaped cable (1 RCA to 2 RCA) to the two line inputs of the subwoofer (its inputs are paralleled).
  2. A stereo power amplifier or receiver without a special linear output to the subwoofer is used, then the connection occurs through the terminals on the subwoofer - its inputs (bypassing the built-in amplifier). The left and right terminals of the amplifier are connected with an acoustic cable to the terminals of the subwoofer - its inputs, parallel to the front speakers.

Connecting two subwoofers

If you are using 2 subwoofers, then you need to connect them to the line output of the amplifier using an RCA Y-adapter or connect them to the output terminals of the amplifier (receiver) in parallel with the front speakers.

Connecting an active subwoofer to the receiver

I won’t immediately fill your head with possibly unnecessary information, but first I’ll present 3 options for connecting an active subwoofer to a receiver/amplifier or DVD/Blu-Ray player. It is possible that your subwoofer only has one “Subwoofer” input, but the diagram below shows the most common option.

The subwoofer has two high-level inputs, so for connection you will need a fairly thick and long speaker cable in order to connect to the amplifier.

There are several ways to connect a subwoofer:

Active subwoofers (with a built-in amplifier) ​​are connected with a coaxial cable RCA - RCA, in other words (tulip-tulip). One end of the cable goes to the subwoofer, the other to the 6-channel analog panel on the receiver in the connector labeled Subwoofer. If there are 2 RCA connectors on the subwoofer (L and R - In) or 4 (L and R - In and Out), then a white connector is used.

To connect a subwoofer, you can use the output terminals that are used to connect speaker systems. In this case, the subwoofer and speaker systems will operate in the low-frequency range in parallel.

The subwoofer is sometimes connected to the output terminals located on the amplifier, then the speakers are connected to the high-level output terminals located on the subwoofer. The fact is that in front of these terminals there are 6 dB high-frequency filters, which reduce the pressure in the low-frequency range exerted on the speaker systems. At the same time, the devices do not operate in parallel, in other words, this connection method allows you to increase the workload exerted on the entire system.

Connecting a passive subwoofer to an amplifier

If the subwoofer has two terminals on the back, then the subwoofer is connected to the output Pre Out Subwoofer through an amplifier. So the connection diagram looks like this: Subwoofer - Speaker cable - Amplifier (especially for subwoofer) - RCA cable - Receiver (Pre Out Subwoofer) .

In other words, the subwoofer can be connected through a separate amplifier, using the Pre-out subwoofer output located on the rear panel of the receiver. Connect the subwoofer to any amplifier, and connect a passive subwoofer to the speaker output of this amplifier using an acoustic cable.

Attention! Remember to set the “cutoff” (cutoff frequency or limit of reproduced frequencies) in the receiver to the subwoofer and adjust only the overall volume of the entire speaker system, since you can ruin the subwoofer by using the subwoofer amplifier control.

Very often, passive subwoofers are connected in parallel to the front speakers:

  • There are three terminals on the back panel of the subwoofer - these are the pluses from the front speakers and their common minus (the minuses are twisted together);
  • There are four terminals on the back of the subwoofer - these are the pros and cons of the front speakers.

The passive subwoofer can also be used in stereo. It is also perfect for connecting to a home theater. When used in conjunction with a stereo amplifier, you need to connect the amplifier outputs to the subwoofer outputs. For these purposes, it is convenient to use, which have a thickness of 2.5 to 4 mm; you just need to select the desired length. When connecting, it is important to ensure that the poles of the plugs match the poles of the provided channels. The subwoofer outputs are connected to satellites. A similar operation is performed when the subwoofer is used in a home theater.

Basic principles when choosing a subwoofer

Many believe that a system with a low-frequency head located in a separate housing, which reproduces sound together with small satellites, is a subwoofer. This is wrong. The meaning of the term “subwoofer” is “below the woofer head”. A subwoofer is a separate acoustic system for reproducing the lower frequencies of the audio range, reducing the lower limit frequency to 20 Hz and below.

The main types of subwoofers: a) active; b) passive. The first type includes models equipped with a built-in amplifier. Their advantage is the unloading of the main home theater amplifier. In this case, the subwoofer requires additional power. The second type includes models that need to be connected to an external amplifier. There are several options for connecting a passive subwoofer. When the receiver supplies a signal to the main speakers and the subwoofer at the same time, the wideband output signal is transmitted to the subwoofer input. In this case, an additional separation filter (crossover) is used, which separates high and low frequencies and delivers filtered signals to the destination (low-frequency to the subwoofer, high- and mid-frequency to the main satellites).

A passive subwoofer has a number of disadvantages, as a result of which their cost is lower than that of active ones. A serious drawback is the need to accurately match the subwoofer with the existing speaker system. This is a very complex process. Connecting a subwoofer using a separate power amplifier and an electronic crossover filter will reduce nonlinear distortion due to the fact that the signal is divided according to a special circuit. And besides, the main amplifier is freed from increased load.

Recently, almost all active subwoofers have the ability to adjust the crossover frequency, so when using this subwoofer connection model, the procedure for matching the main components of the system becomes much simpler. As a disadvantage, we can note the rather high cost of active subwoofers. Despite this, when choosing, I advise you to take a closer look at active ones that have an internal amplifier. If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a subwoofer, take a look at Yamaha's budget models.

Problems with connecting a subwoofer, which can significantly complicate its integration into a speaker system:

- appearance of resonances

Solution: you need to find a place in the room where there are no resonances. For large rooms a subwoofer with a bass reflex is suitable, for small rooms - without it.

- poor workmanship

The cheaper the subwoofer, the lower its quality. But there are poorly designed subwoofers that sound objectively worse than a similar model in that price range. Solution: consult the seller or look for information on specialized forums.

— illiterate subwoofer settings

- incompatibility of components

Solution: consult with experts and enthusiasts on thematic sites and forums, or write questions in the comments, I will answer everyone.

- no sound .

Solution: if you have made the settings correctly, then there can be one reason why the subwoofer does not work. The receiver has several modes, for example, Stereo or Direct, as well as Dolby ProLogicII, DTS, etc. In stereo mode, the subwoofer works, but in direct mode it does not; in other words, there are modes in which the subwoofer is not provided for operation.
Set the settings again, but indicate that the system does not only have a subwoofer, be sure to note the cutoff frequency and other settings related to the subwoofer, and also select the mode in which the subwoofer is intended to operate.

To achieve the best results when connecting a subwoofer, you must take into account the size of the room in which the system is installed. Balance and proportions must be maintained so that the speaker system and subwoofer match each other. Please note that if the amplifier does not have additional pre-outputs with controlled volume, you should not buy a subwoofer equipped only with line level inputs.

The latest subwoofer models have several connection options: at the line level (RCA and XLR connectors). If you have an additional speaker cable to connect to a simple stereo amplifier, you need to use high-amplitude inputs. A long and rather expensive interconnect cable will be required to connect to the line output connectors. Sometimes you need to connect two subwoofers. And if when connecting one, two amplifier channels are used, then when connecting two, each subwoofer is connected to one channel (in Hi-Fi systems such a double connection is rare). When choosing a place to place a subwoofer, it is taken into account that located in the corner of the room, it gives a more booming sound, and near the wall - more bass.

If you purchased an AV receiver with a special output for a subwoofer, configure the receiver by first determining for yourself the lower frequency limit of other audio components (how to do this is shown in the instructions for the receiver). Today, most receivers are equipped with automatic calibration. Such a system includes two external microphones that analyze the sound stage and, based on the data obtained, adjust the signal sent to the speakers. This is a very convenient and effective system that can save the buyer from unnecessary worries.

If you don't like the sound of the subwoofer, try to adjust the crossover cutoff level (roughly speaking, the frequency above which the subwoofer will not sound - the limit) at such a level that it intersects with the minimum playback frequency of the other speakers. In this case, the subwoofer will not sound “separate” from the entire system. You can make this adjustment using the controls located on the rear wall of the subwoofer and using the instructions.

There are three types of subwoofer: closed, bass reflex and bandpass. Each type has both advantages and disadvantages. It is impossible not to take into account the design of the housing when choosing a subwoofer, since it has a strong influence on its acoustic properties.

Subwoofer closed type have the simplest design. They do not leak sound from the radiating surface, are distinguished by a smoother frequency response and less signal delay, and are able to reproduce deep and rich bass. At the same time, closed subs require a significant volume of the body, due to which they become quite bulky and uncomfortable. The fact is that the diffuser of the woofer head in such models is more heavily loaded with the sound pressure arising in the body, its mobility and output are reduced. The small cabinet does not produce very deep bass.

In subwoofers bass reflex type The speaker is located in a housing, on one side of which, usually on the back, there is a hole. Such models are capable of producing bass much lower than a closed woofer, since the cone stroke increases. Bass reflexes are much more capricious, they are much more difficult to tune, otherwise the speaker system begins to hum. Bass reflex subwoofers are more suitable for large rooms, as they have high volume.

Bandpass subwoofer is a bandpass filter, a model that combines the properties of a closed and bass-reflex type. Due to the fact that one part of the body is a closed box, and the other is a bass reflex, the sound pressure increases, but the frequency range becomes smaller.

For home speaker systems, I advise you to choose closed subwoofers, as they are less capricious, produce deep bass, or bass reflex ones. Another parameter that you need to pay attention to when choosing a low-frequency component is the power, which should be related to the power of the front speakers. It is recommended to calculate the power of the subwoofer amplifier so that it is one and a half times greater than the power of the speaker system. This ratio leads to improved sound quality.

The standard frequency range of a subwoofer is 30-180 Hz. There are models in which the lower playback limit is 25Hz. They are much more expensive and are rarely installed at home, since the human ear detects lower frequencies in the range of 30 - 40 Hz, such detail is not required in a home speaker system.

Conclusion: The most suitable for home speaker systems would be a closed or bass reflex subwoofer with a power of 150 W and a reproducible frequency range of 30 - 180 Hz, but you can get by with fairly low power.

If we talk further about the variety of subwoofer models, we note that there are many different designs and production technologies. The material from which subwoofers are made may vary. For the production of enclosures, wood of various species is used, diffusers - Kevlar, cellulose. Housings can also be of various geometric shapes.

An important factor is the size of the subwoofer. The stroke length of the diffuser, and, consequently, part of the nonlinear distortions depends on the dimensions of the model body. There are no compact models with thick and juicy bass. Those models that are small in size compared to others lose in volume and sound quality. The most important thing is that the sound quality of the subwoofer depends on all these production aspects.

So, in fact, choosing a subwoofer that has the characteristics necessary for your speaker system, stylish design, and acceptable dimensions is not an easy task. Determine your requirements and think about the pros and cons of different types of subwoofers. Remember that with the same technical characteristics, models may differ, for example, in dimensions, material from which the body is made, etc. And watching a high-quality movie on a home theater with real sound justifies all the efforts in selecting and configuring system components, becoming reward.

P.S. To help car enthusiasts, there are a couple of diagrams for connecting a subwoofer in a car.

Connection diagram for a subwoofer in a car (passive)

Connecting an active subwoofer in a car

1. Connecting the linear RCA outputs of the radio with the RCA inputs of the subwoofer ( LOW INPUT). You must connect with a regular RCA cable (2 tulips - 2 tulips or a pair of tulip-tulip cables). If there are no RCA outputs on the radio, connect to HI INPUT.

2. Power connection. Positive battery cable ( via fuse) To +12V terminal subwoofer (power), negative cable from the battery (or from the car body) to the subwoofer terminal GND. The fuse is placed 10-20 cm from the battery.

3. Connecting the subwoofer to the wire R.E.M. on the radio. REM - control wire. It is led from the radio to the REM terminal of the same name on the subwoofer, connected to the “blue/white” wire (see the instructions), which sticks out from the bundle of wires on the radio, usually labeled. When you turn on the radio, the supply voltage appears on it. The wire can be of any diameter, the current is minimal.

A subwoofer is one of the most important components of a multi-channel system. The organization of home theaters rarely does without it. The classic concept of this element of acoustics provides for more detailed elaboration compared to full-size stereo systems. In addition, in some complexes such settings muffle the distorting factors of the sound, making the playback cleaner. More importantly, home has minimal impact on the physical organization of the system.

As a rule, this is a compact installation, the placement of which also does not matter from the point of view of the listener's sound perception. This is due precisely to the specific propagation of a signal from the low spectrum, which is equally captured regardless of the position of the source. Nevertheless, connecting and configuring the equipment still requires knowledge of some technical and operational nuances of the subwoofer.

What is special about an active subwoofer?

The main difference between active subwoofers and passive equipment is the presence of an integrated one. It is thanks to this addition that the equipment effectively removes the low-frequency load from the base amplifier. In addition, the device also has an active crossover, allowing you to filter high frequencies and simplify the coordination of equipment with wideband acoustics. Additional features are also available in some models. Thus, a home subwoofer, the price of which is more than 30-35 thousand rubles, is usually equipped with functions for adjusting to special operating conditions. These are not premium models, but a fairly strong middle class. Representatives of this segment support adjusting the frequency spectrum, phase rotation, adjusting the positions of crossover points, etc.

How to connect an active subwoofer through an amplifier?

The amplifier is most often equipped with a special RCA channel designed for connecting active subwoofers. Some models even provide several inputs, which expands the acoustic capabilities of the equipment. The user only needs to prepare an RCA cable of the optimal length and connect it to the appropriate connector. As for the simultaneous use of two inputs, powerful home subwoofers connected via a splitter cable help implement this scheme. With this method of interaction, the subwoofer will double the input sensitivity, but this solution will not have a noticeable effect on the surround sound.

It is also worth keeping in mind that subwoofers are usually equipped with right and left high-level channels. In the case of such acoustics, it is especially important not to make a mistake in choosing a cable. It is advisable to give preference to solid copper wire, which will preserve the maximum signal volume. However, if you are using a home active subwoofer from the budget category, then there will be little point in increasing the performance of the connected equipment.

Connection to output terminals

Another connection option involves using the main output terminals. In this case, they are connected to the high-level outputs on the subwoofer. High-pass filters are also located in front of the terminals, providing an average of 6 dB. This configuration ensures minimal pressure on the acoustics in the low-frequency range. But when deciding how to connect an active subwoofer through the input terminals, it is important to take into account the disadvantage of such a circuit. If the described connection model is selected through direct output terminals and filters of the subwoofer itself, then optimal sound quality can be achieved over the entire range while minimizing acoustic palette errors in the low frequency spectrum. But since the connection channels will operate in parallel, the overall load on the system will be significantly increased.

Setting up a home subwoofer by frequency

Basic setup of the equipment is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the main acoustics. In any case, it’s worth focusing on the main parameters. The setting itself can be adjusted in the parameters of the audio crossover and phase switch, which will be discussed below. But before it is possible to begin direct calibration of acoustic indicators, you should check the quality of the connection and, if possible, optimize the connection nodes. Moreover, modern subwoofers for home theaters in certain lines are equipped with wireless communication modules. This means that such equipment does not require the use of traditional physical cables at all and is connected through radio communication sensors. That is, you only need to synchronize the equipment via a Bluetooth module or other wireless communication system.

Crossover adjustment

The crossover setting is designed to set the frequency spectrum of the woofer separation. That is, with the help of this regulator, subwoofers for home theaters are precisely adjusted over the entire range of signal reproduction. Some models even provide for extreme frequencies at which the equipment is not perceived at all by the human ear. The standard value will be the average position of 80 Hz. You should deviate from this value in cases where there is a booming bass sound. In such a situation, it is recommended to move the regulator towards a lower frequency.

Setting the phase switch

The phase switch, in turn, is designed to compensate for the difference in the gaps between the main subwoofer installation and its components. This control also helps to coordinate signals from different satellites. It is recommended to configure a home active subwoofer using this parameter while playing music excerpts with a man’s low voice. The user must determine during the listening process in which phase switching mode the vocals sound most natural and spacious.

Eliminating acoustic distortion from a subwoofer

For a number of reasons, even expensive branded subwoofers do not always provide crystal clear sound in the low range. However, in some cases such problems can be corrected. For example, pronounced acoustic hum may be caused by dispersion in the subwoofer wires. This is exactly the case when the quality of the cable plays a significant role in the characteristics of the sound transmission. This problem can be corrected either by updating the wire, or by manipulating it in order to find the optimal clean sound. In particular, it is recommended to initially connect powerful home subwoofers via a thick, high-quality RCA cable with an effective shielding function. Often, subwoofer users also note a loud hum, which by all indications is provoked by third-party factors. The so-called current filter in the cable will help eliminate such flaws.

How to choose the best subwoofer?

A high-quality system may well have average performance characteristics and, subject to proper connection, produce a decent acoustic palette. Thus, a powerful home subwoofer, the price of which is about 50-60 thousand rubles, is more likely to cope with its tasks of processing the low frequency range within the limits allowed by the main acoustics. However, the same effect will be provided by an economy class model, which in its maximum performance parameters corresponds to the capabilities of the head unit. That is, overpaying for equipment is not always justified, as is the case with satellites.

In addition to the basic characteristics of impedance, power and frequency range, you should also pay attention to the material of manufacture. Despite the popularity of plastic, the demand for a wooden active subwoofer continues. Reviews note that a body made of natural material is most advantageously involved in suppressing vibrations and uniformly dissipating the operating signal. True, wood is inferior to plastic in terms of practicality from an installation point of view.

Conclusion

The subwoofer as such is included in the speaker system due to the desire for high-quality sound. Active installations with amplifiers achieve this result to a greater extent. And provided the correct connection is made, a home active subwoofer will fully justify the investment in it. According to music lovers who use similar configurations with active subwoofers, in the same home theaters they can achieve powerful playback energy with deep, well-developed bass. The potential of the system to reveal these characteristics is primarily determined by the quality of the connection. In second place are the subwoofer settings for the frequency range.

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