How to fix a computer mouse without professional knowledge and experience? Do-it-yourself computer mouse. Is everything so simple? Disassembling a computer mouse

In detail: do-it-yourself laser mouse repair from a real master for a website website.

There are several dead laser mice .. - the wires are intact, they are detected when connected, the buttons work.
Everything looks whole (inside). Soldering is normal.
The LED is not lit - the cursor does not move.
Replace the LED - just pick it out from another mouse?

It would not hurt to check the power supply resistor.

And the LED - any super-bright, you can even blue, for bohemianism.

resistor is normal.
Conducted experiments on Sven RX-510 .. I put different LEDs, best of all came from another mouse.
current limit the resistor was 360 ohms at this rating, the LED glows, reacts to movement (lights up brighter), however
the cursor moves somehow jerkily and to the upper left side of the screen. Trying to pick up a resistor (up to 60 ohms) did not improve anything ..
Maybe some kind of polarized LED was standing there.
Mice are small from laptops.

The bomb has been planted

Or maybe the infrared LED I had such a few mice came across try to put it from the remote control

People, and such a question: I got a trophy mouse, A4TECH SWOP-3. only one thing - some bad person tore the wire from her. It turned out that this mouse supports both USB and PS / 2, it has 4 wires (they stick out bitten inside the mouse). So, how to determine where which wire is to solder into the USB connector? Contacts are not signed on the board. Googled for 3 days and found nothing. Tell me who knows, please.

It is easy to find food and ground (according to the electrolyte usually found in the intestines of the mouse). The remaining 2 wires - D + / D- - by scientific poke.

Dear colleagues, in correspondence with our English-speaking partners, remember: whether - which, weather - weather, wether - castrated ram!
For some people, the torso is just a splitter that allows you to connect your hands and head to your butt.

I changed the USB connector on an optical mouse, managed to solder everything in mirror image.
That is, food went to the earth, and the earth went to food, and the date was also mixed up.
When I redid it back, the mouse turned on, but the cursor does not stand still, but “trembles”,
And it doesn't move when moving. For the buttons, I forgot whether they work or not, it was a couple of weeks ago
It was, if necessary, I will collect, turn it on, I will say.
The mouse of this kaput?

I will say roughly - if you turn 180 degrees (ie, feet up) and put a spoonful of potatoes into the highest available hole (like a mouth), I think it will be unpleasant. So here - if the microcircuit manufacturer nevertheless suggested the possibility of polarity reversal when designing - then everything will be fine. And if not (which is very likely, because the simplest, most affordable and CHEAP option for protection against polarity reversal will be a diode in the power circuit, but it is an infection, it eats a little voltage on itself, and it costs a little money.) - then get worse.

Anything that can break, breaks. Everything that can be repaired is repaired. Duck combine these events and enjoy.

Computer mouse- probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often malfunctions, the mouse wheel (scroll) sometimes scrolls, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at do-it-yourself repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it is quite easy to repair with your own hands. If you know how to handle a soldering iron even a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any mouse breakdown. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage with a minimum set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice that differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they are most often hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws hold the mouse only in the back. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed due to special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to slightly lift it by the freed back and slowly pull it towards you. You can put a little more pressure on it from the front, but the main thing is not to be very hard, otherwise you will break it! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it may be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scrolling mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder grooves).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor twitches or disappears if one of the wires frays or breaks somewhere (unless, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 different colored wires. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Mouse wiring color scheme

Nutrition- red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Data reception- white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer- green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Earth- black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can clearly judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often occurs in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse body. You can indirectly check for a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in doubtful places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is broken, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer the twist. Here is a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation where we can not precisely point the cursor at a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light of the diode is reflected from the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stubborn debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

If after all cleaning attempts the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight arms, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts jumping up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure, and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axle will slip in a problem area.

We press the latches of the mouse scroll mechanism

To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time tighten it harder. Try connecting a mouse and see if the negative scrolling effect is reduced after each press. Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing in a radical and truly Russian way. I cut a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

The seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

What is most interesting, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse

There are several more options:

disassemble and clean the mechanism;
replace the mechanism with another mouse (with a different malfunction).

Each button has its own click resource. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. A non-working button is almost never repaired, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of a soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it does not work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may signal that the edge of the button pusher, which presses the microswitch, or poor contact inside the contact plate switch, has worn off from frequent use.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be precisely in it. It is enough to fill the washed place with a drop of epoxy or melted plastic. At the same time, while the switch was disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem that you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called contact bounce. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:

Default mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical programmatic way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mice- one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand electronics.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

It's impossible to imagine a repairman's desktop without a handy inexpensive digital multimeter.

This article discusses the device of the 830 series digital multimeters, its circuit, as well as the most common malfunctions and how to resolve them. Read more…

Many people use electric sewing machines. It happens that electric drives of sewing machines, both domestic and imported, fail. It is expensive to replace an electric drive, but in frequent cases you can repair an electric motor or a pedal yourself, saving a lot of money.

Why does a line transistor fail? The line transistor knocks out for two main reasons:

First-thermal breakdown due to a change in the shape of the trigger pulses of the line transistor. A short circuit in a horizontal transformer (RVT) can also cause thermal breakdown.
Second- voltage breakdown mainly due to the power supply and microcracks.

The mouse manipulator occupies a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can cause trouble if there is no store nearby, or a spare tailed one. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball, we will only note that among optical mice, laser mice are distinguished into the category of more accurate ones. Optical manipulators also come in the visible spectrum (they emit red light) and the infrared spectrum, the performance of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

screwdriver
nippers (side cutters)
multimeter
soldering iron and solder
heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of damage detected

The mouse is one of the devices whose reliability is brought to a high level (we are talking about devices manufactured by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. The typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

broken wire
button failure
broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with a kink in the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bent when moving the mouse over the work surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain “kink” of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also typical. Repairing a wire break is simple: after making sure that you have located the break point, we bite off the wire with wire cutters a couple of centimeters above and below the damaged area. Next, solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. At the same time, do not forget to isolate them with a heat shrink tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse; for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber “cable entry”, remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in some glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. In order to further maintainability, I use hot glue. How it looks after repair, see the photo.

Incorrect working out of pressing the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically “by ear and by touch”. The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of scroll wheel problems, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

I haven’t had a chance to repair a lot of them yet, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

Almost all optical and laser mouse repairs are described in the previous two articles.

Here we will talk about rare malfunctions, and the difficulties of repairing computer mice of the latest releases.

Once, the left click button on the computer mouse stopped working, soldered the switch, checked it clicks. I collect, after 10 clicks one skips. I thought the contact on the switch was bad, or a little tin dripped loose. Took it apart, everything seems fine. Then I figured out the platform that presses on the small switch button. A hole formed on it from prolonged work, and of course it either presses it or not. The photo is not good, but you can see a little bit to understand what is at stake.

The place of formation of the shell, on the site of pressing

I had to remove the upper part of the computer mouse, it is attached with plastic fasteners.

Unfastened the fasteners, remove the pad on the top of the mouse

We grind the site, it is important not to mow the general slope.

Of all the mice that had to be repaired, this only happened once. A little more common is this, from a fall on a computer mouse, a laser, or a lens, is confused, the mouse, how to express it. Tupit, the interaction is like through a rubber drive, it works but sluggishly with a delay. This is just such a case, just correct the lens, or put it in place. The laser on a computer mouse breaks very, very rarely. I have never met him in practice, unfortunately I can’t suggest anything about him, I’m not a physicist. 🙁

Well, now about the sad. When repairing the last computer mouse, (the switch broke). The method of soldering the switch stumped. That is, if you inserted the switch earlier, and soldered the legs to the conductive tracks on the other side. Now the wiring comes from the side, the switch, technologically it is probably more profitable. For us, almost a complete ambush. Cannot be manually soldered. Solder something as it turned out. The board after that had a very unpresentable appearance. I tried to drip tin and quickly insert the leg. On the one hand, the option to pass, but with three.

By the way, the wiring of the conductive tracks is now hidden inside the board. The output was found such. Since everything is miniature, I had to take a picture in macro mode. Well, on the computer, look and figure out where the conductive paths go. It's good that they go inside the board without crossing in parallel. Well, then it's a matter of technology. Stupidly stuck the switch, dripped a drop of solder on each leg to fix it. I soldered the jumpers to the exit from the board of the tracks from the switch legs. The computer mouse is working.

If anyone has alternative soldering methods, please announce. It's painful to solder.

Well, that's all the manuals for repairing computer, optical and laser mice.

When all else fails, look “Gaming mice. How to choose".

Many miles to you under the belly of a computer mouse.

Mouse repair- the process of restoring the health of the most popular computer manipulator. The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired at home.

If you know how to handle a soldering iron, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage with a minimum set of tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, scissors, etc.

In the article below, we will look at the most common breakdowns of optical mice and how to repair them at home.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

Many different devices can be connected to a computer, however, there are two without which it will be impossible to work with it. The first is the keyboard, without which the PC, most often, will not even boot. The second is a mouse. Without it, the computer, in principle, can be controlled, but it is very inconvenient to do this from the keyboard.

Throughout the history of the development of computer technology, a huge number of different manipulators have been invented and used: trackpads, joysticks, touchpads, etc. However, nothing simpler and more convenient than the well-known mouse has yet been invented!

The mouse is good for everyone, however, over time, like any technique, it can break down. Fortunately, standard mice have a fairly simple design and can be repaired at home even by people far from electronics! If your mouse has been acting up lately, I hope our article will help you fix it.

Nowadays, there are several types of computer mice that differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time they have a sufficiently high accuracy, which is enough for most users. By the way, in the photo above is just a manipulator of this type. It revealed a breakdown of the scroll wheel, which prompted me to write this article 🙂

However, let's not get ahead of ourselves, but consider what kind of breakdowns occur most often in optical mice:

As you can see, there are not so many typical computer mouse failures. If you correctly identify the symptoms of problems, then they can be localized and eliminated quite quickly. Therefore, we will not rant for a long time, but get down to business.

To perform any type of repair of the mouse, it must first be disassembled. This is usually done with a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they are most often hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be screwed to the case. Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scrolling mechanism, as well as a complex of an LED and a sensitive photosensor:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots). We are ready for the initial inspection and repair!

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse does not work at all if one of the wires frays or breaks somewhere (unless, of course, the mouse is wired). A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 different colored wires. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Food - red (options: golden, orange, blue, white).
Data reception - white (options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transmission - green (options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Earth - black (options: golden green, green, white, blue).

Breakage and chafing of wires most often occurs in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse body. You can indirectly check for a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in doubtful places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is broken, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 You can read how to splice stranded wires correctly here, and here I will just give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look like:

After splicing the wire, try connecting the mouse to the computer - it should work. If it doesn’t work, then there can be two options: either the cable is broken in one more place, or it’s time to throw the mouse away 🙂

To eliminate the option with another break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug using a multitester or other device (you can learn about dialing methods, again, from the article about twisted pair crimping).

The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light of the diode is reflected from the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stubborn debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to blow out fine dust that can stick when wet. After that, gently, without pressure, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of turns and without stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axle will slip in a problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is fine with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could become loose and should be slightly compacted:

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of compaction radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

What is most interesting, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether left, right or the one under the wheel is not important - they are usually all the same. The important thing is that the non-working button is almost never repaired. You can only replace its microswitch by soldering a non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as a “foolproof” to prevent you from inserting the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it does not work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may signal that the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch has worn off from frequent use.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double clicks when you click on it. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or. programmatically! In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:

Mice are one of the most used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand electronics. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Good luck with your repair!

And although computer mice have evolved significantly since the first appearance of this wonderful device, they still break. Let's talk today about computer mice, or rather about the repair of a wireless computer mouse.

For the first computer mice, the most important scourge was the contamination of the very ball that transmits mechanical movement to electronic sensors. Those who remember those times know that it was a dubious pleasure to clean this very ball from dirt. In addition, such a mouse required a rug, otherwise the rubberized ball did not move well on the table.

The time has come and we got rid of this rudiment. Optical mice appeared. Everything would be fine, but the wire with which such an optical mouse was connected to the computer system unit eventually became unusable, and it ceased to obey its owner. The consequences of this could be terrible, up to the complete destruction of a computer mouse on a ruthless brick wall.

But here, too, our botanist friends figured out how to save us from this misfortune - the connecting wire. They began to transmit data from the mouse to the computer via radio waves. Everything would be fine, but the user of such a wireless mouse has to regularly replace dead batteries.

And now, it would seem, all the most malicious attributes have sunk into oblivion: a ball, wires. What's left? Buttons! Yes, yes, it was they who began to break down most often, bringing our favorite computer mouse to complete unavailability. As practice shows, problems with buttons are found not only in cheap models of computer mice, but also in quite branded ones like VAIO.

But, for an avid electronics lover, such a malfunction is not only a challenge to his experience, but also a real opportunity to dig deeper into the insides of this amusing device. Especially if it is not a simple wired mouse, but a wireless one.

Despite the fact that the development of modern means of input information leads to the disposal of various mechanical devices, computer mice still have buttons in their composition.

On the repair table is a SONY VAIO wireless computer mouse model VGP-WMS4. Diagnosis - incorrect operation of the left mouse button (LMB). Everything else is working properly. The reason is also clear. When working with a computer, we most often use the left button than the right or center button (the one under the wheel).

To open the case, we need a scalpel screwdriver. The screws that hold the case together are located under plastic patches that reduce friction. They need to be carefully peeled off the case and put in a clean place. After the repair, we will glue them to the body again. To unscrew the screws, I had to look for a hexagonal nozzle - the screws have a curly groove.

After opening, the electronic filling appears before us. It was done with dignity. The left and right buttons are three-pin buttons without fixing.

If you carefully remove the scroll wheel, then under it we will find a micro button. This is what we press when we click on the wheel - this is the third, central input button.

Let's digress from the repair and at the same time study the device of a wireless computer mouse. As you can see in the photo, several microcircuits are installed on the main board. The one in a square case is more likely responsible for wireless data transmission. The antenna is clearly visible on the printed circuit board, which is made in the form of copper tracks directly on the printed circuit board.

An open optocoupler acts as a rotation sensor for the central wheel. The optocoupler consists of an infrared LED - the one in a transparent case and with two leads, as well as a phototransistor. It has a dark body and three pins.

There are through grooves in the wheel.

When the wheel moves, the through grooves are replaced by partitions. As a result, infrared radiation either passes or does not pass through the wheel base. The received signals from the phototransistor are sent to the microcontroller, which processes the received data.

Also in the case you can find an optical system. It consists of a bright LED, a lens system and a photo sensor.

All computer mouse electronics are powered by two AA (1.5V) alkaline batteries. Moreover, for the operation of the mouse, both the voltage of 1.5V and 3V is removed. A connecting wire extends from the middle contact in the battery compartment. Most likely, 1.5V from one battery is used to power the controllers, while 3V is used to power other parts of the circuit, such as the bright red LED that is part of the optical system of the reader.

Let's get back to repairing our computer mouse. Finding the right replacement button can sometimes be difficult. But that's not a problem. You can use another computer mouse as a “donor”. As a rule, the right key button for many of them is working, and it can be used as a replacement. An optical wired mouse was used as a donor mouse. At one time, she also died a heroic death after numerous attempts to restore the connecting wire. After a short “tail” remained from the wire, she flew into the store

Let's take a look at her device. As we can see on the printed circuit board, we already know the buttons, the scroll wheel, the photosensor (a microcircuit in the middle of the board), the LED and the controller chip. It is worth noting that in this computer mouse, not an optocoupler, but a multi-turn encoder is used as a scroll wheel sensor.

This is not buzzing, since the encoder is an electromechanical part. And, as you know, everything mechanical is subject to wear. In a VAIO mouse, the optocoupler will work more reliably - after all, there are no mechanical contact parts in the optocoupler.

Score 4.5 voters: 15

Hello beginners. Today I will tell and show how to fix a mouse without problems, saving on the family budget and gaining experience that will be useful to any man in everyday life in the future.

They brought me a mouse for repair, with a complaint, “it works when I move the cord.” The malfunction is frequent, especially considering that the wire is tight, which means it is vulnerable in such cases.

DISASSEMBLY

I had to sweat a little until I figured out how it opens. It turned out that at the bottom under the sticker, there are screws that should be unscrewed. And also in the window between the screws you need to press the latch.

Mouse disassembly

INSPECTION

Inspection did not reveal oddities, burnouts, ring cracks and swollen electrolytic capacitors. In general, the board looked decent.

REPAIR

Immediately began to repair the faulty wire at the bend. To do this, I marked the color marking, scratching the capital letters of the colors of the wires on the board, so that later, not to bite my elbows, trying to remember where which wiring was soldered. 🙂

Board overview and wire designation

Soldered them. He cut the safety seal, with the expectation that he would then return it to its place. It turned out to be glued, so I had to carefully tinker, removing the wire from it.
In order to show you how the wire usually breaks inside the insulation, I bit off the damaged area with a margin and cleaned it. The wire was indeed broken, in two wires.

This is what damaged wires look like

Then I cleaned the wire, tinned it and glued the seal in place using rubber glue, Moment. The seal also prevents the wire from popping out of the mouse during operation. I wrapped it with electrical tape so that the bonding was better.

Insulating tape on the seal during drying

Checking ESR Capacitors with a Meter

The capacitors were good. I usually use a spreadsheet to check. ESR, although by and large, it is better to immediately install new ones, for a guarantee. In order to conveniently solder the radio components back, I often use an awl, freeing the holes for the legs of the radio components from tin.

Encoder as well as variable resistors are subject to wear. To do this, having disassembled it, I washed it with a rag moistened with alcohol, lubricated it with Litol "and assembled it neatly in the reverse order, using narrow pliers during assembly.

Encoder and mouse wheel disassembled

Encoder cleaning

Encoder lubrication

Encoder Assembly

At this time, the glue dried up, so I boldly soldered the wire to the board.

Be sure to clean off the remnants of rosin after soldering, under which snot often lurk.

We clean the rosin

Those. tin disordered with rosin, sometimes imperceptibly and vilely making contacts. We clean off the remains of rosin with a brush, preferably moistened with alcohol, since rosin can lead to copper corrosion.

We remove the remnants of rosin with alcohol and a brush

ATTENTION. First I checked the mouse on the computer, which worked, and then only assembled it. You know, I don’t really want to disassemble the mouse again, finding out that the mouse suddenly didn’t work. 🙂

ATTENTION! PROTECT YOUR EYES FROM THE LASER BUILT IN THE MOUSE, WHICH CAN DAMAGE THE RETINA OF THE EYES!

Installed and glued seal

Good afternoon In this article I will tell you how I managed to fix a computer mouse with my own hands. When I bought my rather eminent computer mouse, I was told that it would not be demolished. Three years really passed without problems. Although sometimes, in a fit of emotions, she got a little on the head. The laser mouse is really good and quite unpretentious in operation. I didn’t use a rug for her because he annoyed me, you won’t walk around on it especially. But I noticed some problems with text selection. The cursor jumped over the letters and generally began to highlight whatever he wanted. Well, it's time to clean and I decided to climb to disassemble. I unscrewed three screws that are covered with plugs and I'm inside.

I blew it, took out all the hairs and threads from the wheel, collected it. I try, the selection of the text has become better, with almost no problems. But the slowdown remained. That is, the mouse, as it were, pauses the cursor when moving across the monitor screen from side to side. Do you have to buy a mouse pad? I really didn't want him. I've tried different surfaces and the problem still persists. Decided to conduct an experiment. I pasted tape on the plugs to increase the gap between the mouse and the surface.

I tried it, it got a little better. I glued another layer and voila, the mouse became like new. Sensitive, accurate and without brakes. That is, the problem was the abrasion of the mouse legs over time from friction on the surface of the table. But it doesn’t look like that and the adhesive tape will be erased faster than the legs from a special material. We just stick adhesive tape under the legs of a computer mouse and that's it. Repair of a computer mouse with which hands can be considered finished.

Work for half an hour. The result exceeded expectations. The joy of simplicity and without investment. For example, a normal mouse is about a thousand. Rugs are normal in general space.

In some cases, furniture polish can help. We put it on the computer table. Polish to a shine. Trying to drive a mouse around such a table ... Has it become a little better? Good luck!

If the computer mouse breaks , many users do not know how to live on . The session ends and the search for a new device or recovery begins performance broken thing. If you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can very quickly repair a wireless mouse. Consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource.

Sources of breakdown

In most cases, the cause of the failure will be non-critical because modern laser mice are made from reliable electronic components.

A loss functionality may happen due to:

damage to the USB connector of the computer;
poor quality contacts in the power and control parts of the board;
breakdown of an electronic element;
breakage of microswitches.

Repair algorithm

Before starting work, remove the wireless module from the computer, set the mouse switch to the “off” position and remove the battery. It would be nice to check the battery right away. If everything is in order with it, then we proceed to repair the mouse.

To determine performance USB of the computer is enough to connect a USB flash drive or keyboard to it. If a synchronization signal appears on the monitor screen, it means that the port is in working order. To check the status of a wireless unit with a USB connector, you need to connect to the positive and negative inputs of the plug similar probes of the tester, which is in the diode test mode. If the multimeter displays numbers from 500 - 700 ohms, then the module is working. Of course, this method only indirectly determines the state of the device and does not guarantee one hundred percent confirmation of its serviceability.

In most cases, these steps should help you repair mouse . In the rest - the breakdown will be hidden in microcontroller.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

Missing mouse sensor

Scrolling mouse wheel

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of compaction radically and truly in Russian :) I cut a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

What is most interesting, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse :)

Mouse buttons not working

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as a "foolproof" to prevent you from inserting the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double clicks when you click on it. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically! In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:

conclusions

Mice are one of the most widely used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Good luck with your repair!

P.S. It is allowed to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.